Organic poultry rules hinge on definition of ‘outdoors’

Federal rules for the production of organic eggs and poultry require farmers to give their birds outdoor access. But variations in production practices and different interpretations of the rules have caused debate over what "outdoor access" means.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture, which oversees the National Organic Program, has been working to clarify the definition for years, as well as to develop more specific requirements for farm animals and how they are raised.

For example, USDA last year tightened its standards on how much fresh grass and time on pasture livestock should have in order for milk and meat to qualify as organic.

This fall, the National Organic Standards Board, an advisory group to USDA that consists of farmers, consumers, environmentalists and others, is expected to consider recommendations from its livestock committee on the outdoor access requirements for organic poultry. USDA has final say on what becomes a rule under the National Organic Program.

Dave Martinelli, a producer with Coleman Natural Foods—a parent company of Petaluma Poultry, which produces organic broilers—says part of the problem results from trying to write a national standard that fits different modes of operation in different geographic locations.

Climate differences make it difficult to come up with a one-size-fits-all rule that is effective for all U.S. regions, he said, noting that USDA took years to develop the organic pasture rule for ruminants in part because of regional differences.

Also, poultry, which are omnivores, have different needs than ruminants, which graze on pasture and can withstand harsher conditions. Current regulations require year-round outdoor access for organic poultry, except during times of temporary confinement for certain environmental or animal welfare concerns.

"Now, do (the birds) have to have access to the outdoors 24/7? How many birds actually need to go outside? This is where you start getting into all the gray areas," Martinelli said.

The National Organic Standards Board has been considering standards for stocking density. One point of discussion about the current rule involves whether there should be a requirement for the size of the outside space for the birds to go out.

Some producers support outdoor access on pasture and other vegetation, while others favor the use of production systems that limit outdoor access to enclosed porches or other confined areas so that poultry are not in contact with soil or pasture.

Arnold Riebli, a Sonoma County egg farmer who produces both organic and conventional eggs, said he gives his birds outdoor access to dirt ground in order to be certified organic. But he said new food safety rules from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration also require all egg producers to establish rodent control and biosecurity measures to prevent the spread of salmonella.

Riebli said he worries that by allowing birds outdoor access, he may come into conflict with FDA rules.

"We have the organic purists who want one set of standards, and we have FDA that's saying we must conform to their standards. And we as producers are caught in the middle," he said.

USDA spokeswoman Soo Kim said the department and FDA are aware of the potential clash in the rules.

"(The National Organic Program) is working with FDA and has been in this process of rulemaking, so we've been in discussion with them and are fully aware of what their regulations are. We don't want ours to conflict with theirs and vice versa," she said.

Robin Allan, director of livestock and grower certification for California Certified Organic Farmers, a third-party organic certifier and trade association, said a number of U.S. operations that use porches for outside access have been certified organic, but CCOF does not currently recognize such a system as organic.

"That is an interpretative decision that we as an organization have made," she said.

Martinelli said his company, which is in the organic meat business, believes in outdoor access for livestock. He said he also thinks porches are a "perfectly acceptable environment for the birds," but questions whether that can be considered outdoor access.

Andrew Carlson, president of Turlock-based Central Coast Farms, which raises organic broilers, said there needs to be at least a base line for the outdoor access standard, and producers who want to exceed that standard can choose to do so.

He noted that his operation gives flocks full outdoor access on pasture, and the space outside is equal to what's inside the house. There are also enrichments to encourage the birds to go outside, he said—not because the national organic rule requires it but because it's a marketing decision.

"It's all customer based," Carlson said. "We have a very knowledgeable customer base that's clued in."

As an organic egg producer, David Will, general manager of Chino Valley Ranchers in Arcadia, said he favors giving his chickens access to the ground outside because "that's what the consumer expects and that's what the marketplace demands."

He said he also thinks organic egg producers can let their chickens outside and still comply with the FDA food safety rule, noting that California egg producers—organic and conventional—have for years been following the protocols of the California Egg Quality Assurance Program to ensure food safety associated with salmonella.

"So we have been doing environmental testing and swabbing for an extended period of time and already have a track record of that," he said.

Will said while he would like USDA to keep the current standard that organic poultry must be allowed access to the outdoors, he's concerned about the outside space requirements that any final rule could mandate.

(Ching Lee is an assistant editor of Ag Alert. She may be contacted at clee@cfbf.com.)